2004 Ford Lightning Front Suspension Diagram

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Lightning front-end help

Thread starter cashtown
Start date Feb 14, 2010

Joined: Jul 16, 2007

Messages: 99

Location: Houston

Let me preface this by saying my search didn't yield the results I wanted. Also, I'm not really a mechanic.

My local shop has said that the front left wheel bearing is out on my truck.

It pops when I'm at full-right turn lock in reverse - and doesn't feel that stable through corners. L/F tire also squeals in tight u-turns.

L/F whel is showing uneven wear on either edge ( i assume from the bearing failure, the tire is shifting left and right on the verticle axis).

I want to rebuild this obviously - but while I'm at it what are some budget (not necessarily vatozone parts, but more performance oriented parts that aren't necessarily sky-high in price) that will improve my road-course handling? A-arm, control arm, etc.

Also, I will change all four shocks. What's preferred for front end handling?

In he rear, is there an adjustable shock that I can soften for drag racing at the strip and stiffen for road-course driving?

Vendors/sponsors/links? front-end rebuild/upgrade package deals?

thanks so much in andvance for helping a noob.

austin

Let me preface this by saying my search didn't yield the results I wanted. Also, I'm not really a mechanic.
My local shop has said that the front left wheel bearing is out on my truck.

It pops when I'm at full-right turn lock in reverse - and doesn't feel that stable through corners. L/F tire also squeals in tight u-turns.

L/F whel is showing uneven wear on either edge ( i assume from the bearing failure, the tire is shifting left and right on the verticle axis).

I want to rebuild this obviously - but while I'm at it what are some budget (not necessarily vatozone parts, but more performance oriented parts that aren't necessarily sky-high in price) that will improve my road-course handling? A-arm, control arm, etc.

Also, I will change all four shocks. What's preferred for front end handling?

In he rear, is there an adjustable shock that I can soften for drag racing at the strip and stiffen for road-course driving?

Vendors/sponsors/links? front-end rebuild/upgrade package deals?

thanks so much in andvance for helping a noob.

austin

When you turn and it pops, you have the infamous F series "clunk", they make washers to fix the noise, but if you turn it all the way to the left or right, your still gonna hear the steering stops.

If your talking about wheel bearings, get new races and bearings and install them, pull the wheel off, remove the brake caliper using the allen bolts on the back side, pop the dust cover off, remove the pin, loosen the bolt pull the rotor off and replace/repack the bearings and races. 10 min job, repeat for the other side. Napa/Oriley Felpro/Raybestos are great replacement bearings and races.

If your problem is ball joints, the easiest way is to go to RockAuto Auto Parts buy new upper and lower control arms with the ball joints already in them (their not that expensive), replace them, get an allignment, and drive off happy.

As far as shocks are concerned Most use QA1 stocker stars, their 10 way adjustable and are great for drag racing, if you want to save some $$ and you have lowered the rear of your truck get the strange 6000em 10 way adjustable (their a Mustang shock) and use the qa1's on the front only.

Last edited: Feb 14, 2010

Joined: Jul 16, 2007

Messages: 99

Location: Houston

cool info. man. I think it is the ball joints now that I try and remember correctly.

so there is no "package deal" to make the front end handle better?

cool info. man. I think it is the ball joints now that I try and remember correctly.
so there is no "package deal" to make the front end handle better?

Handle better, well there's the hotchkis TVS system that replaces the swaybars and springs, it rides like poop but stiffen's up the response a great deal over stock.

New Raybestos ball joints/end links, and energy suspension bushings would help the stock stuff greatly. But there's no such thing as a kit.

If you want to lighten it up there's alwayse Woodbine's tubular upper and lower control arms and power rack and pinion that pulls off alot of weight and helps control quite a bit.

Joined: Jul 16, 2007

Messages: 99

Location: Houston

sweet. any other ideas/info? keep it coming

Joined: Jan 7, 2009

Messages: 43

Location: San Jose

I have not ran my truck on a road course yet, TCE brakes in the mail. I currently run a setup recommended by someone that does road race though (if that helps). He ran this setup before he went 3-link and air ride. I have beat on this setup on mountain roads, freeway off ramps/on ramps, and other twists and turns I frequent around my area. What I have now, I think is a great balance between "cornering machine" and "streetability."
I tried the TVS for several months, and if my truck was strictly a track truck, I might have left it on. The stock shocks bottom out, and the HPS 1000 didn't have good rebound valving IMO. With addition of the Kenny Brown x-factor, and DMR panhard, everything became too stiff for the street. It felt unsafe at high speeds hitting bumps, or grabbing grooves on the freeway.

Current setup is more of the big bar/soft spring approach.
Front:
Belltech spindles
stock coils with Mr Gasket black rubbers and iso's in
LFP steering stabalizer
Hellwig sway bar
stock Bilsteins

Rear:
2/5 leafs removed
Bilsteins for 1999 Isuzu Rodeo
DMR panhard
Metco lower traction bars
DMR spyder II brace
Hellwig swaybar

KB x-factor

Nitto NT05 tires all around.

I think that's everything....

If it's a wheel bearing causing a pop you've got big problems! If it only happens at full lock and in reverse it could just be the steering stops popping. That's not normal, but it's not bad either. You can check the ball joints by jacking the truck up by the A-arm and moving the wheel up and down with a pry bar. Any slop in the u-joints will be evident.

If you do need ball joints, get AC Delco. They are better than anything else on the market. The internal load bearing parts are larger than anyone else and are hard chromed to prevent wear. For whatever reason Delco does not advertise any of this, but having seen their parts and others cut apart they have a superior product. My truck needs ball joints and this is what I am going with.

As others have said, there is no real kit for our trucks. Here's my set up:

RUSlow 1100 lb/in coils with 1/2 coil removed
Hotchkis old style leaves
RUSlow Panhard bar
QA1 shocks by RUSlow
TCE Wilwoods on both ends.
Stock sways, but I would like to upgrade to Hotchkis

In 2008 on stock Goodyears I was runnin 1:34's around Hallett Raceway in a rungroup with several Z06's that were running in the 1:32-33 range. In '09 I went back running NT-05's and was off 4 seconds for who knows why. They felt way better than the Goodyears everywhere, but I was 4 seconds slower. Most everyone else was off of their normal times also, but not that much.

RUSlow is no longer selling any of their products, but they show up from time to time used. DMP I believe makes what is very nearly an exact copy of the RUSlow Panhard bar. You might be able to get the QA1's elsewhere or the factory may sell you the same ones Stan had if you ask them. I think they are valved a little differently and are a non-standard length, but I'm not sure.

The best thing you can do is get a performance oriented alignment. The stock alignment settings are terrible for handling because once you get any body roll the tire is up on edge and not working for you any more. I run -1.5 degrees camber on both sides, 5.5 degrees caster on the left adn 6.0 on the right, and zero toe. That is probably a good compromise for the street with stock suspension. A more track worthy setup for stock suspension would probably have a bit more negative camber to compensate for the increased body roll.

Joined: Jul 16, 2007

Messages: 99

Location: Houston

I have not ran my truck on a road course yet, TCE brakes in the mail. I currently run a setup recommended by someone that does road race though (if that helps). He ran this setup before he went 3-link and air ride. I have beat on this setup on mountain roads, freeway off ramps/on ramps, and other twists and turns I frequent around my area. What I have now, I think is a great balance between "cornering machine" and "streetability."
I tried the TVS for several months, and if my truck was strictly a track truck, I might have left it on. The stock shocks bottom out, and the HPS 1000 didn't have good rebound valving IMO. With addition of the Kenny Brown x-factor, and DMR panhard, everything became too stiff for the street. It felt unsafe at high speeds hitting bumps, or grabbing grooves on the freeway.
Current setup is more of the big bar/soft spring approach.
Front:
Belltech spindles
stock coils with Mr Gasket black rubbers and iso's in
LFP steering stabalizer
Hellwig sway bar
stock Bilsteins

Rear:
2/5 leafs removed
Bilsteins for 1999 Isuzu Rodeo
DMR panhard
Metco lower traction bars
DMR spyder II brace
Hellwig swaybar

KB x-factor

Nitto NT05 tires all around.

I think that's everything....

great. links to vendors?

Joined: Jul 16, 2007

Messages: 99

Location: Houston

If it's a wheel bearing causing a pop you've got big problems! If it only happens at full lock and in reverse it could just be the steering stops popping. That's not normal, but it's not bad either. You can check the ball joints by jacking the truck up by the A-arm and moving the wheel up and down with a pry bar. Any slop in the u-joints will be evident.
If you do need ball joints, get AC Delco. They are better than anything else on the market. The internal load bearing parts are larger than anyone else and are hard chromed to prevent wear. For whatever reason Delco does not advertise any of this, but having seen their parts and others cut apart they have a superior product. My truck needs ball joints and this is what I am going with.

As others have said, there is no real kit for our trucks. Here's my set up:

RUSlow 1100 lb/in coils with 1/2 coil removed
Hotchkis old style leaves
RUSlow Panhard bar
QA1 shocks by RUSlow
TCE Wilwoods on both ends.
Stock sways, but I would like to upgrade to Hotchkis

In 2008 on stock Goodyears I was runnin 1:34's around Hallett Raceway in a rungroup with several Z06's that were running in the 1:32-33 range. In '09 I went back running NT-05's and was off 4 seconds for who knows why. They felt way better than the Goodyears everywhere, but I was 4 seconds slower. Most everyone else was off of their normal times also, but not that much.

RUSlow is no longer selling any of their products, but they show up from time to time used. DMP I believe makes what is very nearly an exact copy of the RUSlow Panhard bar. You might be able to get the QA1's elsewhere or the factory may sell you the same ones Stan had if you ask them. I think they are valved a little differently and are a non-standard length, but I'm not sure.

The best thing you can do is get a performance oriented alignment. The stock alignment settings are terrible for handling because once you get any body roll the tire is up on edge and not working for you any more. I run -1.5 degrees camber on both sides, 5.5 degrees caster on the left adn 6.0 on the right, and zero toe. That is probably a good compromise for the street with stock suspension. A more track worthy setup for stock suspension would probably have a bit more negative camber to compensate for the increased body roll.

it's definitely the ball joints - your post was exactly the info I was looking for. How about rear end shocks. Is there a shock that's adjustable for oth street course and drag-launch?

it's definitely the ball joints - your post was exactly the info I was looking for. How about rear end shocks. Is there a shock that's adjustable for oth street course and drag-launch?

My rears are QA1 also.

FWIW, the softest setting on the QA1's is a lot stiffer than the stock shocks.

With as cheap as new LCA's and UCA's are with ball joints installed brand new from rock auto I wouldn't even bother with replacing just the ball joints. I had some ball joints go bad and replaced them with the spicer/raybestos brand and they failed less than 3 months later. What happened was the stock ball joints moved around in the mounting hole that they were pressed into and widened the tolerance causing the new ball joints to move inside the hole also and fail prematurely.

If you want to stiffen up the suspension for road coarse duty you should get a Hotchkis TVS with the adjustable shocks listed below.
http://www.hotchkis.net/total_vehicle_system_lightning_std_cab.html

If you want to use your truck to drag race only I would get JDM drag springs and the Hotchkis leaf springs also using the shock below and add a set of long bars

I would also highly recommend you install a set of camber bolts if you dont already have some. Without them you wont be able to get your truck aligned properly.
http://www.hotchkis.net/f150_alignment_cams.html

Lastly if you dont plan to use the shocks that I suggested below or a shock made for lowered trucks you will need to buy a set of shock extenders. (If you lower the rear)
http://www.est1946.com/
Or I hear you can also get them from belltech.

From Rockauto:

RAYBESTOS Part # 5071146 {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Left Lower; Two Wheel Drive (4x2); Complete Arm With Ball Joint

RAYBESTOS Part # 5071145 {Professional Grade}
Front Suspension; Right Lower; Two Wheel Drive (4x2); Complete Arm With Ball Joint

RAYBESTOS Part # 5021031 {Professional Grade}
Category: Control Arm

RAYBESTOS Part # 5021032 {Professional Grade}
Category: Control Arm

From Summit:

HAL-TC1540P ADJUSTABLE FRONT SHOCK EACH

STR-S6000EM ADJUSTABLE REAR SHOCK EA

Last edited: Feb 15, 2010

Before ordering from Rock Auto I would compare prices locally and buy local if they are even close. I've heard enough stories online about them to question their service, and they even screwed a coworker of mine on balljoints for his Blazer. He bought and paid for the balljoints, they sent him the wrong parts even though the invoice had the correct part numbers on it. After they got the wrong parts back they wanted him to pay the cost difference between the wrong parts and the right ones even though he already paid the price for the correct ones. One of the stories I found online was almost identical to that; I think it was on Ford Truck Enthusiast.

Before ordering from Rock Auto I would compare prices locally and buy local if they are even close. I've heard enough stories online about them to question their service, and they even screwed a coworker of mine on balljoints for his Blazer. He bought and paid for the balljoints, they sent him the wrong parts even though the invoice had the correct part numbers on it. After they got the wrong parts back they wanted him to pay the cost difference between the wrong parts and the right ones even though he already paid the price for the correct ones. One of the stories I found online was almost identical to that; I think it was on Ford Truck Enthusiast.

Im not at all saying your wrong because I havent done the research myself but I along with several friends have all made multiple orders each with rockauto and have never had a problem with there services.

At this point in time I personally wouldnt hesitate to order anything from rockauto and they have always been the cheapest place I have found for anything Ive needed recently.

Last edited: Feb 15, 2010

Joined: Jan 7, 2009

Messages: 43

Location: San Jose

I wouldnt order from [email protected] right now. Hes a great guy but hes going through some personal/health problems and is having problems honoring his orders/sales.

Hopefully he will get things taken care of quickly and get back in business.

Joined: Jul 16, 2007

Messages: 99

Location: Houston

Thanks so much dudes. I appreciate all the info. I want a nice compromise between a drag setup and twisties set-up - maybe with a little adjustability available.

The Metco bars are nice, but for road racing I would look at something like the CE Slide A Link. A solid bar can cause wheel hop under hard braking because it works the opposite way it would when accelerating. The SAL bars can extend under braking. I haven't run either of them, just throwing out possibilities.

I use to work at a automotive shop and the best front end parts you can buy with out breaking the bank is MOOG chassis parts. the ball joints have grease fittings so you can keep the greased. Nascar uses MOOG parts on there race cars. never seen a set go bad. the ford trucks are terrible about ball joints. Lucky for me i have 84,500 on my truck and have never changed them. I stay away from dirt roads and keep them checked about every other oil change. you can buy moog i know from bumpertobumper if you have one and i think NAPA has them

Moog sucks. You will probably have a hard time finding many Moog parts on a racecar. Just because the sticker is on the side doesn't mean the part is on the car. I'm on my third set on my daily driver. As you said, the value is OK, but they are not very good parts.

then whoever put ur front end together sucks. MOOG is one of the best chassis part brands in the world. My truck has 84k mi. and never changed the ball joints. Where in the hell do you take your truck to be on ur 3rd set?